Clearwash Overview
From Silvergrain Products
Clearwash is a highly concentrate washing aid for demanding photographers. It was designed for
- film, resin coated (RC) paper, and fiber based (FB) paper
- processing in tray, vertical slot processor and drum processor
- processing temperature from 18-27C (65-80F)
- prints to be toned
- archival processing
- highly efficient washing procedures
Washing aid is an important step in archival processing of fiber based (FB) paper, but it is also useful for film and RC prints to:
- remove pinkish tint (sensitizing dyes) very effectively (film)
- increase usable capacity of the fixer (film, RC prints, FB prints)
- prevent staining problems with toning process (RC prints, FB prints)
- save washing water and time (film, RC prints, and FB prints)
Full information is found at Clearwash Details section.
Short description
Silvergrain Clearwash is a wash aid supplied in convenient, highly concentrated liquid stock. Clearwash works very similarly to Kodak Hypo Clearing Agent without the mess of powder chemicals. Unlike many other wash aid products being offered in liquid concentrate form, this product is designed to optimize the shelf life as well as the tray life of the solution. Select this dependable wash aid and don't run a risk with inferior products, whose effects are invisible to the eye without laborious testing! This product is formulated entirely with low toxicity chemicals. Dilute 1+19 for use.
Common Questions
Is it essential to use washing aid for film?
No, you can skip washing aid. However, if you like to remove pinkish tint, washing aid is very effective. The pinkish tint is not harmful but it may affect your printing time and contrast.
Is it essential to use washing aid for RC paper?
Generally not. However, washing aid is very useful with the toning process (see an entry in How can I do this?).
Is it essential to use washing aid for FB paper?
Almost. Without washing aid, the washing time will be long and a lot more water will be wasted. Also, again, washing aid is very useful with the toning process (see an entry in How can I do this?).
If not essential, is the use of washing aid only going to increase the chemical waste? The amount of chemicals in washing aid is significantly smaller than developers and fixers. Use of washing aid allows you to use the fixer bath until full processing capacity without losing archival quality, and this reduces chemical waste (and the disposal cost) of the fixer. In addition, you'll save time and water. These are more significant.
Is it essential to use washing aid for non-archival process?
Simply, no.
I hear you said Clearwash increases the processing capacity of Clearfix. Why?
Fixer does not stop fixing all of sudden. It gradually slows down as the solution is used. At the same time, partially exhausted fixer leaves within the emulsion and fiber paper base an insoluble compound that are difficult to wash out, limiting the useful processing capacity of the fixer in archival processing sequence. Washing aid such as Clearwash can wash this harmful but insoluble compound out as long as the material is completely fixed, practically extending the processing capacity.
Is the print archival once fixed in Clearfix and washed in Clearwash?
Yes. This is a conditional yes, assuming ideal storage condition in clean air. However, air in office and residential setting contains environmental pollutants such as ozone, exhaust fume, outgassing from paints and adhesives. Even if great care is used, prints are susceptible to these environmental pollutants. Therefore, it is highly recommended to make the image more resistant to these fumes, by toning prints. Important prints should be toned in polysulfide toner (Kodak Brown Toner) or selenium toner (Kodak Rapid Selenium Toner). A light brown toning or deep selenium toning can prevent image deterioration due to environmental pollutants in most cases.
What toners do you recommend?
For archival purposes, polysulfide toners (e.g., Kodak Brown Toner) is most extensively researched and highly recommended. They make brown black or purplish black with most papers. With some warmtone papers they make orange brown images. The drawback of this type of toner is the foul smell that is toxic to humans and fogs unprocessed emulsion. The next best option is selenium toning. It also increases the permanence of the image but requires deeper toning to ensure good protection effect. However, light toning is much better than no toning in either case.
I already have sodium sulfite. Can I use it as a washing aid? Yes, you can prepare a very inexpensive washing aid by dissolving about 15g of sodium sulfite (anhydrous) and about 5g of sodium metabisulfite per liter of water and use this as a washing aid (working strength), but only for a single session. You may also have problems with hard water. Clearfix has improved keeping property than plain sulfite-metabisulfite solution and more convenient because of liquid concentrate supply. Your choice.
Why are you telling me the way to save money like that?
Because I believe the use of washing aid is a very good idea.
How does Clearwash compare?
What's the difference between Clearwash and other washing aids?
Most washing aids are sulfite based, and their performances are very comparable when used correctly. Most commercial washing aids contain EDTA to prevent scum formation from alum hardener or hard water. Clearwash uses alternative compound to avoid EDTA. Another difference is that Clearwash comes in 20x concentration. That is, you dilute 1+19 before use. The concentration of washing aid products vary widely.
How can I do this?
What is the use of Clearwash in toning process?
Some toners continue to tone after the print is moved from toner to water wash, and the hue shifts may exceed what you wanted. If you transfer the print directly from the toner to a working solution of Clearwash, this overtoning effect is minimized. Also, the risk of print staining is minimized. This is particularly true of polysulfide toners (e.g., Kodak Brown Toner).
How best can I use Clearwash in toning process? Before or after toning?
After. Residual toning agent is just as harmful as residual fixer. Washing aid is effective against both kinds of residues and is most effectively used after toning. Many darkroom textbooks tell you to use washing aid before toning to prevent stain, and this is often useful if your toner and your paper causes stain. Most of the time, a good water rinse after fixing before toning is sufficient. If desired, the same washing aid bath may be used before and after toning process without any harm.
I learned to use Kodak Rapid Selenium Toner mixed in Kodak Hypo Clearing Agent. Can I do this with Clearwash?
Yes. However, studies conducted in 1990s indicated that, the image protective action of KRST is weakened when KHCA is used in conjunction, compared to when KRST and washing aid are used separately. Also, KRST working solution can be kept for much longer time than KHCA or Clearwash, and when they are mixed, the shelf life is shortened. For these reasons, it is best to use separate baths for KRST and washing aid.
I add washing aid in the "holding bath" and then wash prints at the end of the session. Can I do this with Clearwash?
Yes, you can add about 1/20 the amount of water in the holding bath and accumulate the print there until the last print is finished. Then give another 5 minutes should be given for the last print, and wash the print.
I have very hard water and have problems with scum or mineral deposit. How can I solve this?
One common trick to reduce water hardness is to boil water, cool it down, and carefully decant. This may help to reduce the scum. Another way is to mix Clearwash and separate the scum. The best method for film is to use distilled or deionized water to mix Clearwash.
How should I dispose?
Can I dump the exhausted solution down the drain?
Can I dump the unused solution down the drain?
If your drain is connected to sewer treatment facility (publicly owned treatment works), it is likely that a reasonable amount of Clearwash discard from individual photographer's darkroom is not harmful. Generally, the chemical load of washing aid is much lighter than developers and fixers. If discarding concentrate solution, dilute it with a large amount of water. However, the regulation varies, and you are recommended to check your local legislation. In some areas, photographic solution is not allowed in the sewer system.
Can I dump the solution into septic system?
Disposal of chemicals into septic system is usually regulated by local government body and disposal of photographic chemicals is very often prohibited.
What are other options?
You can accumulate spent solution for disposal. Your city or town most likely runs a household hazardous material collection program, and individual photographers very rarely exceeds their allowance limit. Otherwise, call your local licensed chemical hauler.
Material Safety Data Sheet
