Clearfix Overview
From Silvergrain Products
Clearfix Intro
Clearfix Alkaline Fixer is a high performance fixer that is ideal for demanding photographers who are also environmentally concious.
Choice of fixer has a large influence on the time and amount of water necessary to wash out the processing chemicals from the film and paper. Clearfix Alkaline was designed for:
- film, resin coated (RC) paper, and fiber based (FB) paper
- processing in tray, vertical slot processor and drum processor
- processing temperature from 18-27C (65-80F)
- prints to be toned
- archival processing
- highly efficient washing procedures
Full information is found at Clearfix Details section.
Short description
Clearfix Alkaline is a standard archival rapid fixer, ideal for both films and prints. This rapid fixer is designed to expedite fixing as well as the washing speed, without any adverse effect to the image quality or permanence. Most films and RC papers can be washed to the archival level in a matter of minutes. Fiber based prints can be washed to the highest standard with less washing time than any other fixers on the market. pH is buffered at about 7.7 when mixed fresh, and is designed to resist acid stop solution carryover. Dilute 1+3 for optimal fixing and washing time. For RC prints, 1+7 dilution may be used with extended fixing time.
Common Questions
I thought alkaline fix is a special-purpose item. How does it compare to other fixers for everyday use?
Clearfix is recommended as a new everyday fixer in all black-and-white darkroom use. The difference is that you can save time and water if your material is fixed in Clearfix.
Is there any image quality difference between rapid and non-rapid fixers?
Is there any image quality difference between hardening and non-hardening fixers?
Is there any image quality difference between alkaline and acid fixers?
There is no difference, as long as the image is processed correctly. However, rapid non-hardening fixers are most robust and least prone to failure.
Is there any difference in image permanence between rapid and non-rapid fixers?
Is there any difference in image permanence between hardening and non-hardening fixers?
Is there any difference in image permanence between alkaline and non-alkaline fixers? There is no difference, as long as the material is processed and washed correctly. However, rapid alkaline non-hardening fixers are the easiest and simplest way to meet the archival criteria, since it requires the least washing time and therefore least quantity of washing water.
That is, different fixers have different requirements for minimum washing time to clear the archival standard. Acid hardening fixer requires the longest, and rapid non-hardening alkaline fixer the shortest. You can't mix and match the fixer type and washing instruction, unfortunately.
Shouldn't I use a hardening fixer?
If you are processing your material by hand at room temperature, a non-hardening fixer (such as Clearfix) is recommended. Hardening fixers do work fine, but they offer little or no advantage and requires much longer washing time, requiring much more water for processing. So the answer is: not really. There is no reason to use extra chemical agents and increase wasted water for nothing.
Don't I get more scratch if hardener is not used?
No. The scratch resistance of films and prints are not changed by use of hardener, once the film or paper is dried. The risk of scratch during printing, organizing and mounting is equal with or without hardener. The only case where hardener helps to reduce scratch is when you use soft emulsions (very rare among modern pictorial films and papers made by major manufacturers), especially with vigorous flow of washing water or rather careless handling.
Should I use a rapid or non-rapid fixer?
Most users prefer rapid fixers. As the name describes, they fix material more rapidly, and also they wash out of the material more rapidly.
One case where non-rapid fixer is preferred is in a very sensitive region with surface water quality problems. Rapid fixers use ammonium thiosulfate, a biologically available source of nitrogen (that is, it is a fertilizer). Unless the discharged chemicals is treated by a capable sewer system, non-rapid fixer may be preferred. However, in such case, it is more sensible to consider municipal hazardous waste collection or chemical haulers as a disposal option.
How does Clearfix compare?
How fast does Clearfix fixes the film and paper?
When compared at standard concentration, it is as fast as any other high quality rapid fixer. However, the fixing time varies depending on the emulsion type, agitation, temperature, and degree of fixer exhaustion. It is always good to give at least twice the clearing time (film) or specified fixing time (prints) for best results.
How fast does Clearfix wash out after fixing?
At least as fast as any other high quality rapid fixer. It is very likely that it washes out faster than other fixers. Washing instructions in the Clearfix Details section takes this into account and yet uses a generous safety factor.
Is Clearfix compatible with staining/tanning developers? (That is, developers that use pyrogallol or catechol, such as PMK, Kodak ABC Pyro, Pyrocat series)?
Yes.
What is the shelf life of Clearfix?
Clearfix keeps for a very long time in a tightly closed container. Many other fixers cause decomposition of the fixing agent to make insoluble precipitates. This does not happen in properly stored Clearfix.
How does Clearfix compare to other alkaline fixers?
Compared to the other popular alkaline fixer, Clearfix offers greater flexibility because you can choose between acid stop bath and water rinse bath, with equally good results. The other alkaline fix cannot be used with an acid stop bath. The difference is due to superior pH buffering property of Clearfix.
Also, the other popular alkaline fixer has a large amount of borate, while Clearfix contains no borate. Borates have plant toxicity and they are not decomposed by waste water treatment.
How can I do this?
Can I use plain water rinse instead of stop bath?
Can I use acid stop bath?
Yes, to both of the above. Whichever is more convenient may be used with equally good results.
In a single tray method, where large prints are made in a single tray and by pouring and draining processing solutions in sequence, running water rinse is usually easier to use than stop bath.
In a vertical slot processor, stop bath is considerably easier to operate, since changing the solution/water in the slot is a rather laborious work in such setups.
In film developing tanks, the amount of work required is comparable, and both plain water rinse and acid stop bath can be used with equally good results. Plain water stop is more economical and also costs less load to the environment.
Why does the fixer turn purple after use?
If you use an indicator stop bath, the indicator dye from the stop bath, when carried over to the fixer solution, causes the purple color in the fixer. This is because Clearfix has a neutral pH (or Alkaline in case of Clearfix Alkaline), significantly higher than acid fix bath. This is normal and you need not worry about it. One solution is to use plain water stop, where stop bath is replaced with fresh tap water rinse for 30 to 60 seconds. Where running water rinse is inconvenient, Silvergrain Clearstop can be used, and Clearstop is free of dyes and perfumes, thereby adding no color to the stop bath as well as the fixer bath.
Can I use two-stage fixation described in Kodak literature and many darkroom books?
Absolutely.
Can I use Clearfix with a washing aid other than Clearwash?
Of course. To name a few: Ilfowash, Kodak Hypo Clear Agent, Fujifilm QW, or even plain 2% solution of sodium sulfite.
Can I use Ilford Archival Sequence (or Ilford Optimal Sequence) with Clearfix and a FB paper?
Yes, Clearfix is ideal for the Ilford washing system and meets the highest archival standard in the current ISO standard.
Can I use Ilford rapid wash Sequence (a repeated fill and dump sequence) with Clearfix and a film?
Yes, Clearfix is ideal for the Ilford rapid washing system and meets the highest archival standard in the current ISO standard.
Can I use traditional Kodak washing sequence with Clearwash?
Yes, although traditional Kodak washing system was designed to work safely with less washing-efficient hardening fixers (more common in old days), it may be used, if water consumption is not an issue.
I accumulate prints in a holding bath of water after first fix. At the end of each session, I re-fix them, wash, (optionally selenium toning), washing aid, and then final wash. Can I do this with Clearfix?
Yes, Clearfix can be used in the first fix, second fix, or both.
The most economical and advantageous is to use a fresh Clearfix for both fix1 and fix2. Fix1 will exhaust first. When fix1 is exhausted, discard fix1 and move up the fix2 to be the new fix1. Make a new fixer for fix2. Unexhausted fixer solutions can be kept and reused until exhausted.
A popular workshop instructor teaches a procedure similar to this model, but with different fixers for fix1 and fix2. The rapid fixing property of Clearfix is most appreciated when used in fix1. The rapid washing property of Clearfix is most appreciated in fix2.
How can I test that my materials meet or exceed the highest archival quality?
If you carefully follow the processing instructions, the risk is very small. A few things to remember include:
- Give adequate fixing time. Give good agitation in fixer.
- Do not overwork fixer bath.
- Use good agitation (or sufficient water flow) during washing.
However, if you have any doubt (e.g., you use unusual material or processing method), you can test for residual thiosulfate level using silver nitrate test, also known as Kodak HT-2 test solution. No or very light yellow stain is acceptable. Anything darker indicates inadequate washing.
Do you test your recommended procedures?
Yes, and they result in residual thiosulfate levels significantly lower than 10 milligram thiosulfate per square meter, clearing the current ISO standard.
How should I dispose?
Can I dump the unused solution down the drain?
If your drain is connected to sewer treatment facility (publicly owned treatment works), it is likely that a small amount of discard from individual photographer's darkroom is not harmful. If discarding concentrate solution, dilute it with a large amount of water.
The regulation varies, and you are recommended to check your local legislation. In some areas, photographic solution is not allowed in the sewer system.
Can I dump the exhausted solution down the drain?
In many areas, disposal of exhausted fixer into sewer system is regulated, because the solution contains silver. The maximum allowable level of silver is very low. In a small hobbyist darkroom, it may not be a problem. A larger scale darkroom should install a desilvering system or arrange for proper disposal.
The regulation varies, and you are recommended to check your local legislation. In some areas, photographic solution is not allowed in the sewer system.
Can I dump the solution into septic system?
Disposal of chemicals into septic system is usually regulated by local government body and disposal of photographic chemicals is very often prohibited.
What are other options?
You can accumulate wasted solution for disposal. Your city or town most likely runs a household hazardous material collection program, and individual photographers very rarely exceeds their allowance limit. Otherwise, call your local licensed chemical hauler. These options are strongly recommended for exhausted fixer in anything but trivially small quantity from hobbyist darkrooms.
Material Safety Data Sheet
